Disable those Daytime Running Lights (DRL's)...

Remove the plastic cover from the fuse block under the hood right near the airbox.  Flip the cover over and use the chart to locate the DRL relay.

Pop the relay out of the fuse block, and (for test purposes) fold all pins except 87a and 30 over.

Put the relay back in the fuse block and turn your ignition on!

At this point, you could either leave the relay the way it is or twist/cut off the folded pins for a better fit.

Now for the "Auto On" light feature...

Remove the two Phillips head screws holding down the passenger side dashboard  speaker grill and lift up the back and pull it toward you to remove it.

Unplug the connector going to the light sensor and jump the connector with a 1000 ohm resistor.

Replace the speaker grill, and turn your lights on and off when you want to!

You may leave the sensor in the speaker grill so nothing appears to be changed.




Electric Cooling Fan


This fan is replacing a Flex-a-Lite #60 that couldn’t keep the temperature in check.  On a humid 85 degree day with the AC on, the temp would cruise past 215… this fan doesn’t have the capacity for cooling this vehicle.  The temp should be able to be kept under 200 easily with a potent electric fan.


Using a 12”+ crescent wrench, loosen the large nut on the back of the fan clutch. The technique I used was to put the wrench on the nut vertically then tap the end of the wrench with a hammer to break the nut loose.  You may want to make sure the nut will come off before you take the fan shroud off so you can still drive the truck in case you need to go get a bigger wrench.


After the clutch nut has been broken loose remove the upper fan shroud.  Loosen the three 10mm bolts on the upper cross-member and the two bolts on each side of the shroud holding the upper and lower shroud halves together.  Fold the AC lines up and work the upper shroud out.  Now, unscrew the fan off the front of the water pump


The electric fan I installed is out of a mid 90’s 3.8 V6 Lincoln Continental.  Taurus/Sable fans out of 3.8 cars are very similar and will work also.  It is a two speed fan and the three-wire harness should be obvious on the top of the fan.


For installation there is a tab on the top of the electric fan that needs to be cut off.  I put foam weather stripping tape around the outside edge of the fan shroud to protect the radiator from the plastic, and create a little bit of a seal.  Simply slide the fan down behind the radiator.  There is a lip on the bottom of the shroud that wedges nicely between the radiator and the lower existing fan shroud.  On the top of the electric fan shroud were already two holes to run fan/radiator mounting zip ties through.  These ties can be bought from a local auto parts store.  While I was at the store, I picked up an adjustable electric fan control module.  It has all the wires necessary to make a fully functional setup, however it will only work either the high or low setting, not both.


With the fan mounted, the thermocouple can now be placed through the radiator.  Place it near the inlet, upper drivers side of the radiator, the hottest part.  The upper fan shroud can now be reinstalled and bolted in to check the fit and run the necessary wires for the fan control module. 


Time for running wires. An easy place to pick up a switched positive wire is to splice into the plug for the windshield wiper motor.  It’s the wire closest to the front of the truck looking at the plug.  Check the wire with a test light first to be sure though.  Using a test light again, determine which wire going to the AC compressor is the positive.  Splice into this wire and use for the AC override for the fan control module. Run a thick ground wire from the negative wire of the electric fan motor to a suitable ground.  To this same point, you can also attach the ground for the control module.  The control module I got came with a 50 amp relay.  I wouldn’t recommend anything with a lower rating because I believe the fan pulls about 30 amps on high, and there is a huge spike when the fan starts up.  I have a 30 amp fuse in the wire between the control module and the high/low side of the fan.


This is all I have at this point.  The problem with using both high and low on the fan is that they are mutually exclusive.  Power can’t be put to both positive wires at the same time, it has to be one or the other. Below is a schematic of how I have my setup wired. Each relay can be switched by almost anything.